Just last week, one of my Twitter followers reached out to me to ask for advice regarding his hands going numb during bike rides. First of all: thank you for making me feel special and seen. I put a lot of effort into my blog posts and frequently I question if people actually read them and if they are useful. Hearing from a follower regarding an issue they are facing makes me feel validated in my efforts.
I did give him a quick answer, but that’s not the whole story. Below is all you should know about your hands going numb. Read it – I am sure we all have faced the issue at one point or another and would love to avoid it in the future.
Numbness in your hands is caused by prolonged pressure on a nerve. There are three of them that can cause issues. One is a pinched nerve in your neck. If that’s the case – you can go straight to the last long-term solution for addressing it.
The more common problem with the numbness in your hands stems from compression of one of two nerves in your hand. The first one of them is the median nerve and the symptoms are numbness of your thumb and the two fingers closest to it. Here issues come from pressure you exert when pressing against handlebars.
The other nerve you may be compressing is called the ulnar nerve and it’s associated with your pinky and the ring finger. It gets compressed when you grip your handlebars.
Solutions below don’t differentiate between issues from the two nerves separately. I usually can’t tell which part of my hand is going numb the most and you may be like ‘it hurts, just make it stop!’ So try each of the solutions. But try giving it a thought, as it will help you resolve the issues sooner.
I think we are all well-aware of the simplest solution of just shaking your hands out, but there is a couple of other things you can do while riding that can help relieve the problem:
Use your core to lift yourself up with your core. You may not be able to hold this position for long, but it will help.
Maybe you are holding the handlebars in a particularly unfortunate way, leading to nerve compression? Or is it just keeping your hands in the same position for hours on end? Try moving your hands around to find a more comfortable position, including dropping on the lower bars or, if you are on a tri bike, switch to aero bars for a bit.
While you are moving your hands around, make sure that you don’t lock your elbows and don’t keep them stiff, as this increases how much vibrations gets transferred to your hands.
And don’t white-knuckle it. You are compressing your ulnar nerve and it’s making your pinky and ring finger go numb. Relax your grip. Allow your nerves to be free and make sure you are letting blood flow through your hands.
Here is a couple of solutions that may help you address issue in the long run:
I would suggest making this your first check if you are struggling with numb hands while riding, especially if it’s on the side of the thumb. Remember – that’s when the median nerve gets pinched. Being in an incorrect position on a bike can lead to multiple issues, such as back problems or knee injuries. To learn more about bike fit, check out my recent post on the subject.
This is a matching solution to the first short-term solution I have suggested. If your median nerve keeps getting pinched and you know your bike fit is right, it is possible that your core is weak, which leads you to use your arms too much to support your body weight. If this is the case, regular core workouts will help address this problem.
Your mobility and flexibility will help with your position on the bike and to relax all the muscle that’s pinching your nerves. And even if it doesn’t help this particular problem? Stretching is still a good idea.
I know this sounds weird at the first glance, but your tires may impact your hands. But why? This is because size of your tires and how hard they are influences how much impact when hitting bumps in the road gets transferred to your hands. Bigger, softer tires will decrease your chances of getting numb hands.
Now I happen to dislike riding in gloves, but there is a good reason why many cyclists swear by them. Like softer, larger tires, they help absorb shocks and vibrations, making the ride easier on your hands.
I think you can see where this is going… Decrease impact on your hands by padding the handlebars. I think this may be a better idea for me, since I dislike the gloves.
If the issue is a pinched nerve, none of these solutions (except of possibly stretching) will get you far. You will need professional help. Obviously, I hope your problem can be fixed just by moving around, but if your numbness develops early in the rides and pretty much every time, then there is a high likelihood that it’s not as simple as just moving your hanflebars.
As always, stay safe, keep moving and I will see you out there!
First things first: you need to figure out what type of a bike you are shopping for. Main driver behind this decision is going to be what do you plan on doing on it. After all, you probably won’t go down a rocky hill in the woods on a bike with weak breaks and few speeds now, will you? So here are types of bikes you are looking for and their main features:Road – you can usually spot these guys by the drop handlebars. Road bikes tend to be light with skinny tires. They are great for zooming along on paved roads! However, if you will be going on unpaved roads, they are tough to handle and they don’t have much in the shock absorption department. Take my word for it 😅
I feel like these guys can be spotted best by big tires with deep treads, which makes them great for rough terrain and going through obstacles. They tend to be good in shocks department, too, since you are expected to be hitting bumps. You can definitely ride a mountain bike on a paved road as well, but it is much heavier, so you will go slower and tire faster. It’s also a pain if you live a few floors up and have to frequently carry it up and down the stairs 😜
They are sort of like long-distance road bikes. They are meant for long rides (makes me think of my friends touring France on bikes) and offer a better riding position (you don’t want back pain from riding for hours and hours on end day after day). Touring bikes also offer mudguards and mounts for all the stuff you’ll be bringing on your trip. So when you hear ‘touring bike’, stop thinking about being a site-seeing tourist in a city. It’s the long trek through the countryside.
It’s not a coincidence that this type is fourth on the list, as it’s a hybrid 😋 of the previous three. They are lighter, like road bikes, but their tires and shocks are good enough to go on dirt roads. And last but not least, they get comfy seats and higher handlebars from the touring bike for comfort. This may not be a bike you would pick for that century ride you’ve been eyeing or for your trip down a mountain, but it tends to be the best choice for your day-to-day riding around town (especially if you live in a place with horrible roads)
It’s a road bike with a few options extra, like ability to handle non-paved roads. One feature that they need is larger clearance for the wheels, so you can replace road tires with mountain ones if necessary
These guys are like your road bike on steroids. Usually you can spot them by the aero bars – those are the ones that stick out forward. Tri bikes are built with focus on aerodynamics and speed at the expense of everything else, such as comfort or good breaks. They also tend to be really expensive. Basically, your tri bike is for people who well know what they are going for. Oh, and a friendly warning on aero bars: they make you more wobbly and make turning more ‘fun’. I might have to write a whole another article on that though LOL
Leave these guys for pros in the velodrome… Great for aerodynamics, but their gear is fixed, meaning that you can’t coast on it. They also sacrifice everything for the sake of speed, which means that they don’t have breaks. You have to stop them by forcing pedals to stop
They remind me in many ways of the hybrid bikes in that they share features of road and mountain bike. Unlike hybrids, they are meant for racing rather than comfort, so don’t look for wide seats and raised handlebars
I feel like cruisers are the bike of choice for commercials! They tend to be cute and comfortable. Well, comfortable to a point – they have few (more like one?) gears, so stick to flat roads on these. But if your goal is to just ride leisurely along the beach? Go for it!
Just another bike where if you are shopping for it, you know exactly what you are getting yourself into. They have low seats, usually one speed and are meant for tricks and stunts, not really riding
I think they look hilarious! A folding bike definitely has it’s time and place. It’s an awesome idea if you commute and then have a bit to walk at the end or just to run short errands. It’s easy to carry around and store. Drawback? Folding bikes have tiny wheels and are not ideal for long routs and hills
I find it hard to remember that people on recumbent bikes are working hard, too! After all, it’s not easy to take somebody stretched out like they are on a lounge chair seriously. And maybe that’s right. But then again: they can’t use their body weight on hills. I think I need to try riding one some time – they look intriguing!
Meaning bike built for two. I think it’s great, so that you can take advantage of a stronger rider 😉. On the other hand, taller person sits up front. As a small person, I think I would have to be with a child to get to sit in front. So you get to stare at somebody’s back the entire ride long. I was also told that figuring out how to pedal at the same rate can be tricky in the beginning
It’s like a normal bike, but it has a battery to help you pedal. I have a hard time taking them seriously, since using electric motor feels like cheating. On the other hand, they are helpful if you are not in great shape, live somewhere hilly or need to pull heavy load. I think of it in terms of living in bike-friendly area and taking your kids to daycare by bike. It’s awesome, but some hills may be a bit much with a kid in a trailer
Make sure you know what you are planning to spend. It probably helps to look online before heading out the door what the prices are on the type of bikes you are interested. It’s easy to get a sticker shock if you don’t know what to expect. Another benefit of knowing what’s your budget is help in choosing where to go shopping. If you want the cheapest possible bike to run errands, then Walmart may be just the place for you. On the other hand, if you are looking for something serious, you need to be prepared to spend good amount of money at a good bike store.
I hope you have a good idea what bike you are looking for now. Next step: choosing the right size. I didn’t appreciate this issue much when I was younger and didn’t ride as much, but with every additional mile I gain new understanding for wanting a proper fit.
Most places will give it to you based on your height. Don’t be deceived! Measure your inseam leg length. Your height may put you somewhere in the ‘grey area’. The other issue is that we don’t all have the same proportions. Some people are ‘all legs’. And then there are people who have surprisingly short legs. Inseam leg length may be more accurate.
Consult the chart:
Use it as a guide, not a gospel, especially if you are on the border between two. I always face this issue. On a larger bike, you can get into a more aerodynamic position. You can go faster. But… It’s harder to get on/ off a larger bike. You have to be sure you have sufficient clearance to do that safely. Experts advise that about 2 inches (5 cm?) is about right. You should also make sure that length of the bike is right. It’s easier to adjust seat height than how far your seat is from your handlebars.
So there is one more thing after the bike size you need to pay attention to: bike fit. This is for once you have your final bike – you know, the small tweaks.
Why is it important? I am glad you asked! Obvious first answer is: comfort. You don’t want to be awkwardly reaching for the handlebars, do you? Or have your butt always above your head because your seat is really high, while handlebars are low? There is a much more important issue with the fit though: safety. And by that I mean avoiding injuries. For example if your seat is at a wrong height, your legs will bend outwards and you can seriously hurt them over time.
Depending on the type of the bike, there are different things to consider, but one thing you will need to always adjust is:
Easiest adjustment out there! Haven’t we all done it when we had our kid bikes and kept growing… Hopefully you can do this in a safe environment, like at a bike shop where they can put your bike on a stand. You don’t want it to fall over while you are trying to get on it!
Put your butt on the seat and put your heel on the pedal. Can you reach it? Is your knee bent? What you are going for is reaching with your heel while your leg is straight. Adjust accordingly.
Your seat should be flat. I am sure you can imagine on your own why it shouldn’t tilt towards the back (ouch! It hurts just to think about that!). You don’t want it sloping forward, which would lead you to always slide just a bit forward and require you to use your arms a bit more to stay up.
Are you now sitting comfortably on the seat? Great! Time for stage 2 of adjustments: handlebars. Reach for them, including breaks and gear shift. Your arms should be stretched out with elbows slightly bent. Please don’t overextend your elbows (like ever). It’s really easy to break them (in case you crash on a bike, which statistically will happen sooner or later) and hard to fix them. Your core should be able to hold up your torso, so make sure the handlebars are high enough for that.
Height of your handlebars isn’t the only part of the reach though, is it? Make sure that your seat is int he right position. As a general rule, the clamp should be in the middle of the seat. You may need to slide it a bit towards the back or front, but nothing significant. Remember: the goal is for you not to place all of your weight on your hands.
Let’s just say I am guilty of not paying enough attention in this department…
I want to start by arguing in favor of the cleats though. We all start with just open pedals as kids and that’s great. For majority of people that will work fine for their whole lives. Once you are getting more serious though, get cleats. When I first starting riding road bikes, I got toe cages. DON’T DO THAT! They are mentally easier to switch to, but in reality, they are so much harder to use safely than cleats! When something is going on, you have only one way to get your foot out and it’s a pretty large moves. Cleats require only a not-so-hard sideways tug. A lot easier in case of an emergency!
Speaking of a not-so-hard tug: this is one of the top issues to pay attention when you are installing cleats – tension. You need it set up hard enough that your cleats stay attached to the bike while you are riding, but not so hard that you can’t get your foot off when you are trying to stop. Take my word for it, I have tipped over at 0mph before due to not being able to get my foot released 😅. It’s a little screw you can easily twist a little bit. Small adjustment, huge difference.
But before you get to adjusting tension, you need the cleats put on your bike. I will be honest: I always had the shop do it for me. That doesn’t mean I don’t know the theory though 🙂.
Fore/ aft – it belongs in the middle of the ball of your foot. If you want more power for sprints, you can make is a bit more forward. If you focus on riding for a very long time, move it a bit back. Simple enough, right?
Float – this is for the rotational position, which is angle at which your foot should be. Now that I think about it, I may need to make a bit of an adjustment too my cleats on this one…
Roll – It’s whether your foot needs to me at an angle side to side. I tried to figure this one out, but at the end of the day advice is: seek professional help. I suspect that once you figure it out, you may be able to just follow the same pattern in the future.
Stance width – trial and error… when you don’t have cleats, you can move your foot as much as you want in search for comfort. When your feet are strapped in, you have to make sure they are in teh right spot from the beginning. This is a bit of a trial and error process and may take a while. General advice: IT band issues can be helped by increasing the width, while knees going inward call for a narrower stance.
Enjoy your rides, stay safe and I will see you on the road!
Last year, when summer heat got to be a bit much, I wrote about working out in heat. Now the heat is back and dealing with it is once again on my mind. Since hydration is one of key solutions to the heat problems, I figured it would make for a great research subject.
Why should I stay properly hydrated during exercise?
How many times have you heard to make sure you drink enough water? And it’s for both during workouts and generally in your every day life. Your body needs enough fluids to work and when you sweat, you are losing precious water. You are also producing heat when burning calories (I don’t think it’s a coincidence they call it ‘burning’ 😜). When you get dehydrated, you get tired faster, run risk of hear exhaustion or stroke and you increase your risk of cramps (see last week’s post). Think of ‘I want my body to run like a well-oiled machine’, except water is that oil.
What should I use to hydrate?
Besides water? Yeah, most people will just answer with that and move on. It’s not that simple though if you are an endurance athlete. For people who run/ bike for shorter periods of time, especially in milder weather, water would be the logical answer. When you sweat, you are losing sodium as well. Most of us (especially in the US) have plenty of salt in our diets already not to worry about it. If you go for multiple hours in heat though, you will need to replace it. Every pound of sweat contains about 500 milligrams of sodium, but can be as much as double that for heavy sweater. And no, there is no easy way of figuring out if that’s you. Although I suspect that white salt marks on my black clothes after a workout are a hint for me 😜.
How much should I hydrate?
Everybody sweats differently and it depends on the weather, too, so it’s hard to really know what exactly your needs will be on a given day. However, there are some helpful guidelines out there.
Sweat rate
You can figure out your sweat rate. Basically, you weigh yourself naked before an hour long workout and then do the same immediately after. Difference between the two numbers will correspond to how much you sweated out. One note though: take into consideration anything you drank during the workout.
Hyponatremia
Word so fancy that it shows as a spelling error… This happens when sodium levels in your blood become critically low. You sweat out more water than salt relative to your blood composition. This means that if you drink a lot of plain water while you are running/ riding, you are running a risk of throwing off your electrolyte balance. This led to ‘drink to thirst’ trend in endurance sports hydration.
So how much?
Now that you know what hyponatremia is and that you should avoid it, you may be tempted to limit how much water you take in while exercising. Great! One thing though: if you’re going to be out there sweating for 3-4 hours, your salt levels will deplete and that’s a whole new host of issues. Conclusion: once you know how much sweat you will be losing during your race, plan to drink combination of water and sports drinks to replace water and sodium you are sweating out.
Limitation to hydration while exercising
There is a limit to how much water can your body absorb in a given time. This means that if you are running for a long time in heat, you are running a risk of running out of ability to re-hydrate properly. Believe it or not, the answer here lies in proper carb loading. You may have noticed (or read somewhere) that when you carb load, you gain weight faster than what your calorie intake would suggest. That’s because glycogen stored in your muscle keeps water stored in there as well. So if you planned your nutrition right for a few days beforehand, you are already carrying some of the water you will need during your workout.
How should I carry all that water with me?
Running
There are a few routes here, all with advantages and disadvantages (my advance apologies for sounding a bit negative – clearly I am still working on the perfect fit for myself):
Biking
Ah, all the options you have here! Let’s see…
So are you ready now to stay hydrated on your long runs and bike rides? Stay safe and I will see you out there!
The other day, I was running on a treadmill and had the most horrible calf cramp. I wish it was the first one in my life… I have a pretty good recollection of one I experienced back in middle school, which, as far as I know, was my first one. During a swim practice, I dove into freezing water and my calf cramped. I barely made it to the surface, just to be yelled at by the coach for ‘bad form’. It took me a minute to get through to him that I was in pain and it wasn’t my fault.
I am not excessively prone to cramps, but they do happen, so I figured it would be a good idea to look into the issue.
What is a muscle cramp?
Most of us recognize a cramp as intense pain, usually in a calf or another leg muscle, combined with the muscle becoming incredibly hard. I hope you weren’t expecting a lengthy explanation, because really – there isn’t much more to it.
What are risk factors for cramps?
Risk factors for muscle cramps include:
If you fall into any of the above categories and are struggling with frequent muscle cramps, it’s probably best if you talk to your doctor.
What causes muscle cramps?
It’s good to know your risk factors, but they won’t help you figure out what’s going on with your body. There appear to be some research contradicting commonly agreed-upon causes, but here is a list based on consensus:
How to prevent muscle cramps?
I think you can see where it’s going:
While browsing, I found a useful list (source: WebMD) of foods that help prevent cramps:
What to do when you get a muscle cramp?
So it happened – you got a muscle cramp despite all your hard work to prevent them from happening. Now what? Luckily, there are some solutions out there. They tend to be generic, but you can probably see how they tie to different causes:
Always remember to listen to your body and if necessary, talk to a trainer or medical professional.
I know more and more races get cancelled and people are getting discouraged, but keep training! Races will return one day and you will be more ready and motivated than ever!
My coach told me to run with a weighted vest. 20lbs (7.5kg) extra definitely makes for a hard workout! And I can honestly say that stair climbing (mostly down and turning) wearing it caused some issues for the knees. So this week’s question is: is cardio with additional weights a good idea?
As frequently appears to be the case with internet research, this issue made me looks sort of like this: 😭😰😭😰😭😰. Why, you ask? Well, because apparently nobody agrees on the subject!
Options?
I think the most logical place to start is with discussing what are your options for training with additional weights and say a few words on the subject
Something nobody mentioned: pushing a stroller. Ok, so it’s technically not much of a choice for training with weights, but to me it sort of is. I think this is worthy of a whole another article and I may circle back to it in the future.
How much weight?
So this one depends on what weights you are choosing. For your wrists, dumbbells and ankle weights, it’s 1-3 lbs each. You can wear a lot more around your torso. Recommendations are to start at no more than 5% of your body weight and gradually go up to 10%. My 20 lbs weight vest is more than 15% of my body weight 🤔.
Benefits
This is the 😖 part. Between all the studies, there was no particular agreement that it will make you stronger or faster. Here are recurring themes in the benefits column though:
Potential problems
Have you heard that working out with weights is bad for your joints? This is just one of the list of concerns! So here they are, grouped into nature of issues:
Type of weight:
Impact on your body
This varies a bit depending on your choice of weights, but in general, you are putting strain on your joints and ligaments. It puts more pressure on your bones, but in that particular case it happens to be a good thing. But joints and tight muscle are not your friend.
When you carry a lot of weight around your torso, you will naturally hunch over more and your stride will change some. This can cause damage to your body. It’s not the weight itself that causes the problems. It’s your bad form. Fortunately, there is an easy way to address this problem: work on your core, start with lighter weights, at slower pace and over smaller distances. This way your body will have a chance to prepare for large weights on your runs. Drawback: it will kill that quicker pace for gains in your workout.
So should you use weights?
Honestly? Seek professional advice. There are benefits, but also serious risks to using weights when working out. You may be safer just working in faster runs and hills into your routine. And weight lifting time. But this type of training may be right for you. I’d love to have a definite answer, but like many things in life: you can’t always have what you want.
As always: make smart choices and keep up the good work!
